How to Replace Knit Cuffs, Collar, and Waist Band on a Denim Bommer Jacket

Jacket Waist Band

Jacket Sleeve Band

Jacket Waist Band

Jacket Collar

My husband asked me to fix his Denim Bomber Jacket that had severely frayed cuffs, collar, and waist band.  It his favorite fall and spring work jacket. As you can see from these pictures it definitely has seen better days.   I love to deconstruct, repair, and reconstruct garments.  I even like to put new zippers in jeans.  You can really learn allot on garment construction from repairing (mending) garments doing this.  If I loose you on any of the steps detailing this process contact me and I will explain.

Iron Seam--Lint roller

Use Snips to remove Stitches

First disassemble the garment in the areas that need to be repaired.  I use a pairs of sewing snips to do so.  Seam rippers will also work. After all items to be repaired (or just one item a time) are removed, press all seams and remove all loose threads ( A lint roller helps). 

Pin Collar on Fold use Old collar  as Pattern

New Collar before Pressing

I used a flat stretch knit for all the pieces.  New cuffs are available in larger fabric stores, for this work coat, I used what I had on hand. Cut the pieces positioned with the greatest stretch of the fabric which  is the horizontal stretch.  For example on the collar you see the greatest stretch on the fabric will be on the length of the collar.  Also for the waist piece and the cuff.  I always start with the hardest part to do first, then work my way to the easiest part.  You can do this in any order you want.

                                                        



New Collar after Pressing

Collar Pinned Ready to Sew

Collar Pinning Center Back

Fold the collar in half length wise and press. Fold the collar to find the center back, place pin.  Fold shoulder seams of jacket to find the center back, place pin. Match the center back collar and center back jacket pins and pin together. Pin the end of the collar on the left and right side of the jacket finish pining collar across the left and right side, fold facings back into position and pin those also.   Depending on the way the jacket is constructed you will probably not be able stitch all the way to the ends. There will not be stitches all the way across the facing, you will be able to correct this when top stitching. (See picture below for details of before and after top stitching.) I used a regular straight stitch because I was stitching knit to denim.  My machine was set on the stitch length setting of number 5.  I then surged the seam but you can zigzag the seam to finish it if a surger is not available.  Press the collar seam you just stitched on to the garment toward the back of the jacket to make it easier to top stitch you will see the original pressing seam.  I matched the previous top stitch color so it will  match the existing Top Stitching and  I used thread to match the jacket color in the bobbin; then I stitched exactly the way it was, across the left and right collar facing also.



Before Top Stitching

Before Top Stitching




Before Top Stitching

Before Top Stitching




After Top Stitching




Back Waist Band

Side Waist Band

Next do the waist band using the same method as the collar.  I measured the old waist band (long ways) and added 1 inch to the measurement doubled the width because you will fold this in half to make the new waist band. For example the old piece was 18 inches long and 2 inches wide, cut one piece that is 19 inches long and 4 inches wide.  You will be folding this in half pressing, the new piece  will be 2 inches wide and 19 inches long (just an example).  Remember to fold the waist band and the jacket to find the center point of the back. Pin waist band to the each side of the jacket and keep finding the half way points of the jacket and band, pinning together while stretching the waist band to fit, until evenly distributed across.  Work your facing pieces like you did previously with the collar. Stitch across, surge or zigzag to finish the seam. Press seam up. Do the top stitching changing thread colors like you did for the collar. 





New Cuff and Jacket Sleeve

Jacket Sleeve

Now the cuff--measure around the old cuff at the top,  add one inch to the measurement. If  the old cuff was too tight now is the time to correct that and add desired amount to correct this.  Measure the width of the cuff and double that( you will be folding the cuff). For example your new cuff needs to be 10 inches around and 2 inches wide.  You will need to cut two pieces 4 inches wide and 10 inches long.  You need one new cuff for each sleeve. Sew one piece of the cuff together the right side of the fabric facing each other.  Now sew the second cuff  the same way as the first one. Carefully press this seam.  Now fold in half so the seams are on the inside of the cuff you will now have 2 separate tubes that are 9 inches around and 2 inches wide(your measurements may be different).  Carefully press these 2 new cuffs.    Fold cuffs in half place pins at the top of the cuff(raw edges of fabric) fold again and pin again (left top picture). Pin the sleeve of the jacket the same way(right top picture).  Now put the new cuff on the jacket right side matching and pin in place match all the pin placements, stretch cuff to fit sleeve.

Sleeve With New Cuff

Stitch like the collar and the waist piece.  You will not have any facings to work with on the sleeves and top stitching on a sleeve is usely not done.  Surge or zigzag the seam to finish it and press sleeve up toward the inside of the sleeve away from the opening.

Finished Jacket with new Collar, Cuffs, and Waist Band.